Home equity: How to borrow against your home’s value
This article is for informational purposes only and is not intended to provide legal, financial, or tax advice. Consult a qualified professional about your situation.
Home equity is the share of your home you actually own, its current market value minus everything you still owe against it. Most lenders let you borrow up to a combined loan-to-value of 80% – 85%, so a $350,000 Michigan home with a $200,000 first mortgage might support roughly $80,000 – $97,500 of new borrowing. You can reach that equity three ways: a home equity loan (a fixed-rate lump sum), a HELOC (a revolving line you draw from), or a cash-out refinance that replaces your first mortgage entirely.
Learn how HELOCs, home equity loans, and cash-out refinances compare, how much equity you can actually borrow, and which uses are worth the risk.
Key takeaways:
- The formula: Your equity is your home’s current value minus your total mortgage balances, and most lenders let you borrow against it only up to a combined 80% – 85% loan-to-value.
- Three tools, three shapes: A home equity loan is a fixed-rate lump sum, a HELOC is a variable-rate revolving line with a draw period that commonly runs about 10 years, and a cash-out refinance replaces your first mortgage at today’s rate.
- Who should use which: If your first mortgage carries a rate well below today’s market, a second mortgage usually beats a cash-out refinance, which reprices your whole balance.
What is home equity and how do you calculate it?
Home equity is the portion of your home’s current market value that you own outright. The value a lender would assign today, minus every loan balance secured by the property.
The arithmetic is one line: take a realistic value, subtract your first mortgage payoff and any other recorded lien, and what’s left is your equity.
Say you own a $350,000 home in Waterford with a $200,000 first mortgage. Your equity is $150,000, but equity you own and equity you can borrow are different numbers. At a combined loan-to-value ceiling of 85%, a lender would allow $297,500 of total mortgage debt, leaving roughly $97,500 available. At a stricter 80% ceiling, the same house supports $280,000 total, or about $80,000 of new borrowing. Example figures are hypothetical and for educational purposes only; they do not constitute a rate quote. Your rate and terms depend on your application and market conditions.
Equity grows two ways: principal paydown, which is slow and certain, and real estate appreciation, which can reverse. The value that counts is the one an appraiser or an accepted automated valuation assigns, not a portal’s estimate.
What you do with the money matters more than which product you pick, so start with using home equity wisely.
Ways to tap home equity: HELOC vs. home equity loan vs. cash-out refinance
There are three ways to convert equity into money, and the choice comes down to your existing first-mortgage rate and whether you need the cash at once. This page is the home equity chapter of our refinancing and home equity guide.
| Feature | Home equity loan | HELOC | Cash-out refinance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rate type | Usually fixed | Usually variable | Usually fixed |
| How you get the funds | Lump sum at closing | Revolving line, drawn as needed | Lump sum at closing |
| Typical term | 5 – 30 years, amortizing | ~10-year draw, then repayment over 10 – 20 years | 15 or 30 years |
| Effect on your first mortgage | Stays as it is | Stays as it is | Replaced at today’s rate |
| Typical closing costs | Lower than a first mortgage | Lowest of the three | 2% – 6% of the loan |
| Best for | A fixed sum you can price today | Ongoing or unpredictable draws | When today’s rate is at or below yours |
A home equity line of credit (HELOC) works like a credit card secured by your house: you draw what you need and pay interest only on the drawn balance. The draw period commonly runs about 10 years with interest-only or minimum payments, then the balance converts to a repayment period, often 10 – 20 years of fully amortizing payments. That flip is where people get hurt: the payment can jump sharply, and the rate stays variable, an index plus a fixed margin, for the life of the line.
A home equity loan is the fixed-payment option: one lump sum at closing, one rate, one schedule, and a payment that never changes. You trade flexibility for the removal of rate risk.
A cash-out refinance replaces your mortgage with a larger loan and hands you the difference, so the whole balance is repriced at today’s rate. Our types of refinancing hub covers cash-out mechanics and limits.
How much equity can you actually borrow?
Most lenders cap you at a combined loan-to-value of 80% – 85%, and a handful of lenders in Align’s network will stretch to 90% for strong files. Combined loan-to-value, CLTV, is every mortgage balance on the house divided by the home’s value.
Run it at two houses. On a $350,000 home with a $200,000 balance, an 85% ceiling allows $297,500 of total debt, leaving about $97,500. On a $250,000 home with a $120,000 balance, that ceiling allows $212,500, leaving about $92,500. Nearly as much, because what matters is the gap between your balance and the ceiling.
Five things move that ceiling, and each varies by lender rather than by national rule:
- Credit score: Higher scores unlock the higher CLTV tiers, so moving from an 80% approval to 85% is usually a credit decision.
- Debt-to-income ratio: A second mortgage adds a payment to a household that already has one, so your debt-to-income ratio (DTI) tightens fast. Retiring a car loan can help more than 20 points of score.
- Occupancy: Primary residences get the highest ceilings, and some lenders won’t write a second lien on a rental at all.
- Property type: Single-family detached homes price best; condos, multi-unit, and manufactured homes face tighter limits and fewer willing lenders.
- Lien position: A second mortgage is paid only after the first is satisfied in a foreclosure, so it prices higher. Our guide to second mortgages explains how that drives your rate.
Far fewer wholesale lenders buy second-lien paper than write first mortgages, and the ones that do disagree sharply on maximum CLTV and minimum score. Align Lending shops the same file across 75+ wholesale lenders, so one lender’s 80% ceiling isn’t a verdict.
Smart and risky uses of home equity
Borrowing against equity makes the most sense when the money buys an asset or retires higher-rate debt, and the least sense when it funds something you’ll consume long before the loan is repaid.
When borrowing against equity makes sense
- Improvements that outlast the loan: A roof or a furnace will still be working in year 10. That’s the test: put equity toward something that outlasts the loan. Our guide to financing home renovations weighs the alternatives.
- Retiring genuinely higher-rate debt: Trading double-digit revolving balances for a secured loan at a lower rate saves real money, but only if the cards stay closed afterward.
- A defined cost you’ve already priced: A known medical bill, a tuition invoice, or a business purchase with a calculable return. A number you can name before you borrow.
When it usually doesn’t
- Vacations, weddings, and vehicles: A 15-year loan against your house for a two-week trip is the clearest bad trade in home lending.
- Covering a monthly shortfall: Equity borrowed to plug a recurring gap doesn’t close it, it adds a payment.
- Speculative investments: If the investment falls, you lose it and still owe the loan, secured by your house.
Say the risk plainly, because lenders often don’t: an equity loan converts unsecured debt into debt secured by your house. Miss payments on a credit card and you get collection calls; miss them here and the remedy is foreclosure, even from second position.
The tax treatment is narrower than most people assume. Interest on a home equity loan or HELOC is deductible only if the funds are used to buy, build, or substantially improve the home that secures the loan, and overall limits on qualified mortgage debt still apply. Consolidating credit cards generally doesn’t qualify. Read the rules in IRS Publication 936 and talk with a tax professional before you count on a deduction.
How to qualify and get the best terms on an equity loan
Lenders in Align’s network typically want a credit score in the 620 – 680 range on second-lien products, a debt-to-income ratio at or under 43% – 50% depending on the lender and the CLTV, and verified value from an appraisal or accepted automated valuation. None of those numbers is a federal standard, they’re lender guidelines, and they move from lender to lender. Our home equity loan tips cover what to tighten first.
- Credit score: Second-lien pricing tiers are steeper, so 20 points can be worth more here than on a purchase loan, see what counts as a good credit score and which tier you sit in.
- Debt-to-income ratio: Your DTI compares total monthly debt payments to gross monthly income, and the new equity payment counts. The CFPB’s explainer on debt-to-income ratio walks through the math.
- Verified value: A full interior appraisal usually takes 1 – 3 weeks; an automated valuation can be instant.
- Clean title: An old unreleased mortgage or forgotten contractor’s lien stalls the file until it’s cleared.
Shopping matters more here than on a first mortgage: second-lien pricing isn’t disciplined by a huge secondary market, so identical files draw very different rates and fees.
One structure worth knowing: in the right circumstances you can refinance your first mortgage using a home equity loan, keeping a smaller balance in first position while the equity loan carries the rest. Our refinancing guide hub works through the break-even math. Either way, on a loan secured by your primary residence, federal law gives you a three-business-day right of rescission after closing before the money is released.
What Michigan homeowners should know
Three Michigan details belong in the math before you borrow.
- State-backed improvement help may beat a HELOC: Michigan runs homeowner repair assistance through MSHDA and local partner agencies, and on an income-qualified file with a modest budget, that can cost less than borrowing against equity. Funding and eligibility change yearly, so confirm what’s open. Our guide to renovation loans compares that route against borrowing on equity.
- Recording is a real cost, even on a “no closing cost” line: Every second mortgage is recorded at your county register of deeds. Michigan sets a flat $30 per-document recording fee in state law rather than a percentage of the loan, charter counties may set their own schedule, and a title search sits on top of that. “No closing costs” usually means the lender advanced them.
- Equity isn’t spread evenly across the state: Values have moved at very different speeds county to county, so a statewide “average equity” figure says little about your house. If your file has a complication, a low appraisal, negative equity, a name coming off the note, our refinance situations hub has a guide for it.
FAQ: Borrowing against home equity
Here are answers to common questions about borrowing against your home equity.
How long does it take to get a home equity loan or HELOC?
Typically two to six weeks from application to funding, which is faster than most first mortgages but slower than lenders advertise. The variables are the appraisal, some lenders accept an automated valuation and skip it entirely, and the title search on your existing liens. Federal law also gives owner-occupants a three-business-day right of rescission after closing before the money is released. See what to expect in refinancing and second-lien closing costs.
Do I need a full appraisal to borrow against my equity?
Not always. Many lenders will accept an automated valuation model or a drive-by exterior appraisal when your requested combined loan-to-value stays comfortably under 80% and your credit is strong. Ask for a full interior appraisal anyway if you have made significant improvements. An AVM will not see your new kitchen, and an undervalued home shrinks what you can borrow. Our walkthrough of the home appraisal process covers what an appraiser looks at and what an automated valuation misses.
What happens to my HELOC payment when rates rise?
It goes up, usually within a billing cycle or two. HELOCs are variable-rate loans tied to an index plus a fixed margin, so an increase in the index passes straight through to your payment. Ask your lender whether the line offers a fixed-rate conversion option on all or part of the balance, and confirm the lifetime rate cap before you sign. The same index-plus-margin mechanics drive adjustable-rate mortgage resets.
Can I sell my home if I still owe on a second mortgage?
Yes. Both loans simply get paid off from the sale proceeds at closing, in lien order, your first mortgage, then the second. The only real problem arises when the sale price does not cover both balances plus selling costs, which is a short-sale conversation. Get a current payoff quote on both liens before you set a list price, and see how selling a home with a home equity loan works at closing.
The bottom line on borrowing against home equity
Home equity is your home’s current value minus everything you owe against it, and most lenders cap borrowing at a combined loan-to-value of 80% – 85%, roughly $97,500 on a $350,000 home carrying a $200,000 first mortgage. A home equity loan gives you a fixed lump sum, a HELOC gives you a variable-rate line you draw on for about 10 years, and a cash-out refinance replaces your first mortgage. The decision rule: keep a low first-mortgage rate and take a second behind it; reprice everything with a cash-out only when today’s rate is at or below yours.
If you’re ready to put your equity to work, talk to Align Lending, we’ll shop your scenario across our lender network and show you HELOC, home equity loan, and cash-out pricing side by side. Call 248-506-5727 or start online today.
Example figures are hypothetical and for educational purposes only; they do not constitute an advertisement of credit terms or a rate quote. Requirements described as typical reflect lender guidelines, not federal standards. This article is for informational purposes only and is not intended to provide legal, financial, or tax advice. Consult a qualified professional about your situation.